Layers And Shades

Layers And Shades
Layers And Shades

Tuesday 13 November 2018

BARSEY RHODODENDRON SANCTUARY – THE RHODODENDRON TRAIL


BARSEY RHODODENDRON SANCTUARY – THE RHODODENDRON TRAIL

The Entrance 

The Car Parking 


The advent of Spring infuses a rejuvenation in the temperature gradients of the Sikkim Himalayas. The 25km journey from Okhrey to Hilley by road represented an extravaganza of colours – the sloppy canvas being spattered with riots of red-pink-white shades by the paintbrush of nature. Rhododendrons, Magnolia, Primula peered from both sides of the curvy trail making the journey indelible with their signature full-bloom smile and the thick wild smell mixed with the aroma of the mountain wind. Misty veils accompanied throughout the way up to Hilley from where the trek begins to Varsey or Barsey through the dense Rhododendron Sanctuary blessed with the eerie wilderness. The fragile and beautiful plants play a vital role in supporting plant and animal life in the sub-alpine regions of the Himalayas, making their conservation very important.

Full Bloom 

Rhododendron 


The concept of biodiversity conservation in the Sikkim Himalayas i.e. Singalila Range is very important. The names of many places in this region commemorate saints who came to meditate and also to variegated flora and fauna found abundantly there. Some of these forests are still preserved as sacred groves or “Devithans” and are a source of life giving water. Despite this history, it was not until the 1990’s that the endeavors thrived into the creation of a sanctuary in this region. This dream is now flourishing as the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary (1996). There are 30 villages comprising 6500 households with a total population of about 40 thousand people adjoining this sanctuary, which have been brought under the Eco Development Network.

Spotlights 

Spotted Laughingthrush on Rhododendron Tree

Our car halted at the foothill of the sanctuary that is on the pitch laden path from where the journey begins. A large bright green map on the left side showed the flora and fauna found in the large area of the sanctuary. As I went up through the stone-staircase, the White-browed Fulvettas beckoned amid the Rhododendrons smeared with white-pink-crimson hues –no wonder it was the revel time for these mountain birds in the full-bloom season. We were then inspected or to be precise, the number of cameras we carried was checked at the Hilley Check post and after acquiring the permit by submission of fees, finally we entered the reign of the Rhododendrons through the bright coloured gateway.   

The Winding Path 

Rhododendrons

The Sanctuary spans the razor-sharp Singalila Range. The climate is damp and cold favouring the spread of the dominant genus Rhododendron. July is the wettest month with average annual precipitation being in excess of 350 cm. Regular snowfalls is witnessed at above 2500m in winter. Clear vistas of the blue sky can be experienced as well as the grandeur of the flowers in best form are to be seen from the months of November to May, is regarded as the best time to visit the sanctuary. The temperature ranges from -10° to 25°c.

Black-faced Laughingthrush

Located at an altitude of 10000ft, the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary (BRS) or VARSEY Rhododendron Sanctuary (27°11’49’’ N and 88°7’45’’ E) is sprawled over a total area of 104 sq km across the Singalila Ridge marking the border of Nepal and is domicile to numerous species of Rhododendron, Primula, Magnolia, Oak and Pine. It forms a vital corridor in the larger Khangchandzonga Biosphere Reserve in the north with the Singalila National Park of West Bengal in the south. The Rambong Khola separates the sanctuary from West Bengal. Sir J. D. Hooker , the world renowned botanist noted in his diary that the Shingalila Range formed the political boundary between Sikkim and Nepal, springs from Khangchandzonga and extends southwards to the plains of Bengal. The super abundance of rhododendrons is the glory of Singalila Range.

He walked and walked, and never looked back...

The banks of rivers between 8000 and 14000ft are generally covered with the Rhododendrons, sometimes to the total exclusion of other wooded vegetation, especially near the snowy mountain, a cool temperature and great humidity being the most favourable condition for the luxurious growth of this genus. Such conditions prevail throughout the Shingalila Range due to its proximity with the Khangchandzonga Range. The Silver Fir extends to 13000ft and the Junipers to 15000ft. For many miles the path runs through woods of Rhododendron arboreumRhododendron cinnabarinum, Rhododendron falconeri, Rhododendron barbatum, Rhododendron campanulatum, Rhododendron hodgesoni, Acer caudatum, Betula utilis, Pieris ovalfolia, Prunus rufa, Pyrus foliolosa, Pyrus macrophylla etc. Around 600 varieties out of the 1000 known varieties of Rhododendrons in Sikkim are recorded here. Here also are seen the last examples of the dwarf bamboo tribe, Arundinaria spathiflora and Arundinaria racemosa.

Spotted Laughingthrush (back) and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush 

Black-faced Laughingthrush

The altitudinal range of 2200m to 4100m supports a wide variety biodiversity values ranging from A. Sub-tropical moist deciduous forest at 2100-2400m (Castanopsis indica, Michelia excelsa, Juglans regia, Schima wallichii etc) ; B. Wet- temperature mixed broadleaf forest at 2400-2700m (Quercus lamelloa, Quercus lineata, Acer campbellii, Magolia campbellii etc and a host of epiphytic algae, fungi and orchids) ; C. Moist-temperature conifer forests at 2700-3250m (Tsuga dumosa, Abies densa, Rhododendron falconeri, dwarf bamboo –Arundinaria sp. etc) ; D. Sub- alpine forests at 3250-4000m (scarce dwarf Rhododendron shrubbery mainly Rhododendron anthopogan, Rhododendron lepidotum, Rhododendron setosum, Juniperus recurva, Sorbus, Rosa, Ribes, Vibernum etc) and finally E. Alpine forest at 4000m and up (alpine flowers –Poa, Anemone, Mecanopsis, Primula, Aconitum, Delphinium, Bergenia, Bistorta etc). These diversified forests provide shelter to a wide range of faunal elements. The sanctuary harbours some pure standards of Rhododendrons, the dominant genus favoured by the wet and cold climate along the Singalila Range and a variety of epiphytic orchids, ferns, mosses and lichens. Meadows take over from above 4000m and are rich in medicinal plants.

Spotted Laughingthrush

White-browed Fulvetta taking off 

Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel

The flowering season allures a plethora of bird species making it an enchanting birding paradise. About hundreds of bird species are found in this sanctuary including some spectacular rare species of pheasants namely Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Monal Pheasant, Kaleej Pheasant etc along with Black-breasted parrotbill, Rusty-bellied Shortwing besides many varieties of Laughingthrushes, Tits, Warblers, Babblers, Yuhinas and Flycatchers. Notable large mammals include Leopard, Leopard Cat, Marbled Cat, Yellow throated Marten, Palm Civet, Wild Dog, Goral, Indian Fox, Jackal, Barking Deer, Black Bear, Wild Boar, Red Panda, Rhesus Macaque, Himalayan Langur, Crestless Porcupine, Chinese Pangolin, Flying Squirrel, Himalayan Orange-bellied Squirrel, Giant Squirrel, Himalayan Mousehare etc.

White-browed Fulvetta 

Chestnut-crowed Laughingthrush

Black-faced Laughingthrush 

The trail allover a serene one offered the quick sights of Yellow browed Tit, Black throated Tit, Coal Tit, Grey-hooded Warbler, Grey Treepie etc. Wooden shades are built at regular interval to offer the trekkers some rest and enough time for relaxing. It was satisfying to see the litter bins used well by the travelers as banners are put up at regular distance for perfect awareness. But in spite of that polythene bags, chocolate wrappers, hard drink bottles, thermocol plates were seen flying here and there or tucked in between stones of the trail. No matter the numbers of these harmful litters were less but it was irritating to see those scattered in middle of trail. As a matter of fact these are harmful to the sewage system of the sanctuary because in monsoon those would flow with the rainwater and get clogged in the drains. It can act as life-threatening to the wild animals too, if swallowed.

Black-faced Laughingthrush  
Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel 

As we headed back, we met a few other trekkers who were planning for night stay at Varsey. Shri Lakpa Norbu, who is in charge of the Hilley Check post, accompanied us a few meters before we came back to the entrance gate. He has his home attached to the Check post where he lives with his family. In casual talks, he also referred that he has seen the elusive Red Panda two times in his duty so far. He cordially invited us to sit at his home and have breakfast with home-made Thumba (a fermented drink made from herbal plants). As I sat on a bench outside to catch a few breaths after the trek from Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, the flock of Laughingthrushes of three sub species along with tiny fluffy White-browed Fulvettas started to flutter around me.

Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes and Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel sharing feast ;)

No bickering, no attacking :)

Surprising it was to see them so desperate even in the presence of three human beings and with the television playing in moderate volume at Norbu’s house. As I was dumbstruck, even to take up my camera and take some really close shots, Norbu casually said, “they flutter here everyday to pick up perched rice that we scatter on the table and on the soil.” And it was not unethical to feed them as the birds do not get enough food in the sanctuary and henceforth strolls in the surroundings to pick up the healthy food made at home. As I sat down on the soil, the Fulvettas kept on distracting me from focusing some Laughingthrush playing on the table! Then a surprising sight of two Himalayan Orange-bellied Squirrels appeared to take a share of the perched rice from the birds. And they kept on bickering over that, sometimes on the table and sometimes on the soil. And it was around half an hour that I spent with those birds and the squirrels, after biding adieu to the elusive sanctuary; the wild smell of Rhododendrons still lingering and the call of the birds still echoing.

Face-off :D 

Close-up  
Black-faced Laughingthrush

The starting point for any visit to BRS is West Sikkim district. The sanctuary covers Soreng and 
Gyalshing district, however the head quarter is situated in Gyalshing district. The district is accessible by road only. New Jalpaiguri or NJP (West Bengal) is the nearest (140km) rail head and Bagdogra (West Bengal) is the nearest airport (144km). There are three main entry points to Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary namely Hilley, Soreng, Uttarey and also Dentam. There are 10km moderate trek from Soreng to Varsey, 5km trek from Soreng to Jhandi Dhara and 24km trek of 3-4 days from Uttarey, Chewa, Phalut to Ribdi on the Indo-Nepal border with spectacular mountainscapes and pristine forests with diversified birds and wildlife.  However the most popular and viable entry is through Hilley, it being easily approachable by road and can proceed upto 4km trek to Varsey through the gravel path shaded by dense thickets of  Bamboo and Rhododendrons below the Tal Mountain Ridge laden with conifer forest of Silver Fir and Hemlock. The trail winds its way with the magnificence of the tender green creepers and climbers hanging as chandeliers and colourful wild blooms accompanied with dew-soaked ferns, mosses and algae.

Busy nibbling 

Angry Bird :D

Log-house accommodation is available at Barsey, Hilley, Chitrey etc. Camping is also permitted in the designated camping site. In accordance with the provision of the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972, and the wildlife rules made thereon, the visitors can explore the Sanctuary for the purpose of photography, research, tourism etc on the payment of a moderate reasonable charges at the Hilley Checkpost alongside abiding by a few codes of conduct.

Let's Get Lost <3 

Controlled tourism and livestock husbandry are the two economic activities ecologically feasible here. The sanctuary is regarded as a Habitat or Species Management Area in IUCN Category IV and an Important Bird Area(s) (IBA) on the southeast corner of Sikkim with Nepal as its western border. The State Forest Department has taken active initiative in ensuring the maintenance of habitats and requirements of specific species. However a few challenges are there regarding the poaching of wildlife especially when they venture outside the reserved area, permanent cattle sheds, grazing by stray cattle and encroachment in the form of cardamom cultivation in the buffer zones. Awareness drives have been launched in big way and Eco Development Committees have been formed, trained and strengthened. It is hoped that with increased awareness and empowerment of local community, these setbacks will be surmounted soon to preserve the virginity of the pristine kingdom of the Rhododendrons.


SHREYA SIKDER


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