BARSEY
RHODODENDRON SANCTUARY – THE RHODODENDRON TRAIL
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| The Entrance |
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| The Car Parking |
The advent of Spring infuses a rejuvenation in
the temperature gradients of the Sikkim Himalayas. The 25km journey from Okhrey
to Hilley by road represented an extravaganza of colours – the sloppy canvas
being spattered with riots of red-pink-white shades by the paintbrush of
nature. Rhododendrons, Magnolia, Primula peered from both sides of the curvy
trail making the journey indelible with their signature full-bloom smile and
the thick wild smell mixed with the aroma of the mountain wind. Misty veils accompanied
throughout the way up to Hilley from where the trek begins to Varsey or Barsey
through the dense Rhododendron Sanctuary blessed with the eerie wilderness. The
fragile and beautiful plants play a vital role in supporting plant and animal
life in the sub-alpine regions of the Himalayas, making their conservation very
important.
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| Full Bloom |
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| Rhododendron |
The concept of biodiversity conservation in
the Sikkim Himalayas i.e. Singalila Range is very important. The names of many
places in this region commemorate saints who came to meditate and also to
variegated flora and fauna found abundantly there. Some of these forests are
still preserved as sacred groves or “Devithans” and are a source of life giving
water. Despite this history, it was not until the 1990’s that the endeavors
thrived into the creation of a sanctuary in this region. This dream is now
flourishing as the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary (1996). There are 30 villages
comprising 6500 households with a total population of about 40 thousand people
adjoining this sanctuary, which have been brought under the Eco Development
Network.
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| Spotlights |
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| Spotted Laughingthrush on Rhododendron Tree |
Our car halted at the foothill of the
sanctuary that is on the pitch laden path from where the journey begins. A
large bright green map on the left side showed the flora and fauna found in the
large area of the sanctuary. As I went up through the stone-staircase, the
White-browed Fulvettas beckoned amid the Rhododendrons smeared with
white-pink-crimson hues –no wonder it was the revel time for these mountain
birds in the full-bloom season. We were then inspected or to be precise, the
number of cameras we carried was checked at the Hilley Check post and after
acquiring the permit by submission of fees, finally we entered the reign of the
Rhododendrons through the bright coloured gateway.
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| The Winding Path |
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| Rhododendrons |
The Sanctuary spans the razor-sharp Singalila
Range. The climate is damp and cold favouring the spread of the dominant genus
Rhododendron. July is the wettest month with average annual precipitation being
in excess of 350 cm. Regular snowfalls is witnessed at above 2500m in winter.
Clear vistas of the blue sky can be experienced as well as the grandeur of the
flowers in best form are to be seen from the months of November to May, is
regarded as the best time to visit the sanctuary. The temperature ranges from
-10° to
25°c.
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| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
Located at an altitude of 10000ft, the Barsey
Rhododendron Sanctuary (BRS) or VARSEY Rhododendron Sanctuary (27°11’49’’ N and 88°7’45’’
E) is sprawled over a total area of 104 sq km across the Singalila Ridge
marking the border of Nepal and is domicile to numerous species of
Rhododendron, Primula, Magnolia, Oak and Pine. It forms a vital corridor in the
larger Khangchandzonga Biosphere Reserve in the north with the Singalila
National Park of West Bengal in the south. The Rambong Khola separates the
sanctuary from West Bengal. Sir J. D. Hooker , the world renowned botanist noted
in his diary that the Shingalila Range formed the political boundary between
Sikkim and Nepal, springs from Khangchandzonga and extends southwards to the
plains of Bengal. The super abundance of rhododendrons is the glory of Singalila
Range.
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| He walked and walked, and never looked back... |
The banks of rivers between 8000 and 14000ft
are generally covered with the Rhododendrons, sometimes to the total exclusion
of other wooded vegetation, especially near the snowy mountain, a cool
temperature and great humidity being the most favourable condition for the
luxurious growth of this genus. Such conditions prevail throughout the
Shingalila Range due to its proximity with the Khangchandzonga Range. The
Silver Fir extends to 13000ft and the Junipers to 15000ft. For many miles the
path runs through woods of Rhododendron
arboreum, Rhododendron cinnabarinum, Rhododendron
falconeri, Rhododendron barbatum,
Rhododendron campanulatum, Rhododendron hodgesoni, Acer caudatum, Betula utilis, Pieris
ovalfolia, Prunus rufa, Pyrus foliolosa, Pyrus macrophylla etc. Around 600 varieties out of the 1000 known
varieties of Rhododendrons in Sikkim are recorded here. Here also are seen the
last examples of the dwarf bamboo tribe, Arundinaria
spathiflora and Arundinaria racemosa.
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| Spotted Laughingthrush (back) and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush |
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| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
The altitudinal range of 2200m to 4100m
supports a wide variety biodiversity values ranging from A. Sub-tropical
moist deciduous forest at 2100-2400m (Castanopsis
indica, Michelia excelsa, Juglans regia, Schima wallichii etc) ; B. Wet- temperature mixed broadleaf
forest at 2400-2700m (Quercus lamelloa,
Quercus lineata, Acer campbellii, Magolia
campbellii etc and a host of epiphytic algae, fungi and orchids) ; C.
Moist-temperature conifer forests at 2700-3250m (Tsuga dumosa, Abies densa,
Rhododendron falconeri, dwarf bamboo
–Arundinaria sp. etc) ; D. Sub- alpine forests at 3250-4000m (scarce
dwarf Rhododendron shrubbery mainly Rhododendron
anthopogan, Rhododendron lepidotum,
Rhododendron setosum, Juniperus recurva, Sorbus, Rosa, Ribes,
Vibernum etc) and finally E. Alpine forest at 4000m and up (alpine
flowers –Poa, Anemone, Mecanopsis, Primula, Aconitum, Delphinium, Bergenia,
Bistorta etc). These diversified forests provide shelter to a wide range of
faunal elements. The sanctuary harbours some pure standards of Rhododendrons,
the dominant genus favoured by the wet and cold climate along the Singalila
Range and a variety of epiphytic orchids, ferns, mosses and lichens. Meadows
take over from above 4000m and are rich in medicinal plants.
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| Spotted Laughingthrush |
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| White-browed Fulvetta taking off |
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| Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel |
The flowering season allures a plethora of
bird species making it an enchanting birding paradise. About hundreds of bird
species are found in this sanctuary including some spectacular rare species of
pheasants namely Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Monal Pheasant, Kaleej
Pheasant etc along with Black-breasted parrotbill, Rusty-bellied Shortwing
besides many varieties of Laughingthrushes, Tits, Warblers, Babblers, Yuhinas
and Flycatchers. Notable large mammals include Leopard, Leopard Cat, Marbled
Cat, Yellow throated Marten, Palm Civet, Wild Dog, Goral, Indian Fox, Jackal,
Barking Deer, Black Bear, Wild Boar, Red Panda, Rhesus Macaque, Himalayan
Langur, Crestless Porcupine, Chinese Pangolin, Flying Squirrel, Himalayan Orange-bellied
Squirrel, Giant Squirrel, Himalayan Mousehare etc.
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| White-browed Fulvetta |
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| Chestnut-crowed Laughingthrush |
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| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
The trail allover a serene one offered the
quick sights of Yellow browed Tit, Black throated Tit, Coal Tit, Grey-hooded
Warbler, Grey Treepie etc. Wooden shades are built at regular interval to offer
the trekkers some rest and enough time for relaxing. It was satisfying to see
the litter bins used well by the travelers as banners are put up at regular
distance for perfect awareness. But in spite of that polythene bags, chocolate
wrappers, hard drink bottles, thermocol plates were seen flying here and there or
tucked in between stones of the trail. No matter the numbers of these harmful
litters were less but it was irritating to see those scattered in middle of
trail. As a matter of fact these are harmful to the sewage system of the
sanctuary because in monsoon those would flow with the rainwater and get
clogged in the drains. It can act as life-threatening to the wild animals too,
if swallowed.
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| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
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| Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel |
As we headed back, we met a few other trekkers
who were planning for night stay at Varsey. Shri Lakpa Norbu, who is in charge
of the Hilley Check post, accompanied us a few meters before we came back to
the entrance gate. He has his home attached to the Check post where he lives
with his family. In casual talks, he also referred that he has seen the elusive
Red Panda two times in his duty so far. He cordially invited us to sit at his
home and have breakfast with home-made Thumba
(a fermented drink made from herbal plants). As I sat on a bench outside to
catch a few breaths after the trek from Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, the
flock of Laughingthrushes of three sub species along with tiny fluffy
White-browed Fulvettas started to flutter around me.
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| Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes and Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel sharing feast ;) |
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| No bickering, no attacking :) |
Surprising it was to see them so desperate
even in the presence of three human beings and with the television playing in
moderate volume at Norbu’s house. As I was dumbstruck, even to take up my
camera and take some really close shots, Norbu casually said, “they flutter
here everyday to pick up perched rice that we scatter on the table and on the
soil.” And it was not unethical to feed them as the birds do not get enough
food in the sanctuary and henceforth strolls in the surroundings to pick up the
healthy food made at home. As I sat down on the soil, the Fulvettas kept on
distracting me from focusing some Laughingthrush playing on the table! Then a
surprising sight of two Himalayan Orange-bellied Squirrels appeared to take a
share of the perched rice from the birds. And they kept on bickering over that,
sometimes on the table and sometimes on the soil. And it was around half an
hour that I spent with those birds and the squirrels, after biding adieu to the
elusive sanctuary; the wild smell of Rhododendrons still lingering and the call
of the birds still echoing.
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| Face-off :D |
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| Close-up |
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| Black-faced Laughingthrush |
The starting point for any visit to BRS is
West Sikkim district. The sanctuary covers Soreng and Gyalshing district, however the head quarter
is situated in Gyalshing district. The district is accessible by road only. New
Jalpaiguri or NJP (West Bengal) is the nearest (140km) rail head and Bagdogra
(West Bengal) is the nearest airport (144km). There are three main entry points
to Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary namely Hilley, Soreng, Uttarey and also
Dentam. There are 10km moderate trek from Soreng to Varsey, 5km trek from
Soreng to Jhandi Dhara and 24km trek of 3-4 days from Uttarey, Chewa, Phalut to
Ribdi on the Indo-Nepal border with spectacular mountainscapes and pristine
forests with diversified birds and wildlife.
However the most popular and viable entry is through Hilley, it being
easily approachable by road and can proceed upto 4km trek to Varsey through the
gravel path shaded by dense thickets of
Bamboo and Rhododendrons below the Tal Mountain Ridge laden with conifer
forest of Silver Fir and Hemlock. The trail winds its way with the magnificence
of the tender green creepers and climbers hanging as chandeliers and colourful
wild blooms accompanied with dew-soaked ferns, mosses and algae.
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| Busy nibbling |
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| Angry Bird :D |
Log-house accommodation is available at
Barsey, Hilley, Chitrey etc. Camping is also permitted in the designated
camping site. In accordance with the provision of the Wildlife Protection Act,
1972, and the wildlife rules made thereon, the visitors can explore the
Sanctuary for the purpose of photography, research, tourism etc on the payment
of a moderate reasonable charges at the Hilley Checkpost alongside abiding by a
few codes of conduct.
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| Let's Get Lost <3 |
Controlled tourism and livestock husbandry are
the two economic activities ecologically feasible here. The sanctuary is
regarded as a Habitat or Species Management Area in IUCN Category IV and an
Important Bird Area(s) (IBA) on the southeast corner of Sikkim with Nepal as
its western border. The State Forest Department has taken active initiative in
ensuring the maintenance of habitats and requirements of specific species.
However a few challenges are there regarding the poaching of wildlife
especially when they venture outside the reserved area, permanent cattle sheds,
grazing by stray cattle and encroachment in the form of cardamom cultivation in
the buffer zones. Awareness drives have been launched in big way and Eco
Development Committees have been formed, trained and strengthened. It is hoped
that with increased awareness and empowerment of local community, these
setbacks will be surmounted soon to preserve the virginity of the pristine
kingdom of the Rhododendrons.
SHREYA SIKDER
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